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Just steps from metro Gambetta, the Marché Belgrand erupts in a riot of color and neighborhood bustle every Wednesday and Saturday morning.
Sprawling out behind the Town Hall of the 20th Arrondissement, enticing stands line the Rue de la Chine, nestled in between the Square Edouard-Vaillant and the imposing Hôpital Tenon. This decades-old market then continues around the corner along Rue Belgrand, past the Square Edith Piaf, and all the way to the entrance of the metro station Porte de Bagnolet.
The Marché Belgrand is a mainstay of the local community. Market folk know their customers and shout greetings as people stop and chat. Here, a trip to the market isn’t just for shopping; it’s a return to a slower, traditional way of life where market days mean a chance to get fresh air, exchange gossip, and eventually purchase some produce.
Everybody patiently stands in line at the cheesemonger’s stall to only then spend ages with the expert discussing which cheese is best that day and for which occasion. They take their time, whether there’s a line or not. The same goes for the butcher and fishmonger. Who said Parisians were always in a rush?
There are vendors selling fresh fruit and vegetables and a couple of superb seafood stalls as well. A creamery offers farm-fresh milk, eggs, cream, and cheeses. A rotisserie tempts everyone with the smell of freshly roasted chicken and bite-sized Bouchées à la Reine while a florist charms you with colorful blossoms. Add to that a few stands selling clothing, scarves, and other knick-knacks, and it makes for a well-rounded, fun and friendly market. One you won’t leave empty-handed.
Although the Marché Belgrand may not necessarily be one of Paris’s best markets, it is reportedly one of the city’s longest and it certainly is popular with the locals. Far from the tourist trail, it’s a great place to pick up something for a Parisian picnic and enjoy a taste of true Parisian life.
Open Wednesdays 7am–2:30pm and Saturdays 7am–3pm.
Learn what to look for at the market and how to use those fresh ingredients to prepare a 5-course French meal with our Market to Table Experience.