Skip to main content

Marché Belgrand

Farmers market stands on streets of Paris

Marché Belgrand

Lively Local Market in a Lesser-Known Part of Paris

Rue Belgrand, 75020 Paris

This review may contain sponsored or affiliate links.

Just steps from metro Gambetta, the Marché Belgrand erupts in a riot of color and neighborhood bustle every Wednesday and Saturday morning.

Sprawling out behind the Town Hall of the 20th Arrondissement, enticing stands line the Rue de la Chine, nestled in between the Square Edouard-Vaillant and the imposing Hôpital Tenon. This decades-old market then continues around the corner along Rue Belgrand, past the Square Edith Piaf, and all the way to the entrance of the metro station Porte de Bagnolet.

Square Edouard-Vaillant in Paris's 20th Arrondissement.
The charming Square Edouard Vaillant borders the Marché Belgrand. Photo by Ulrike Lemmin-Woolfrey.

The Marché Belgrand is a mainstay of the local community. Market folk know their customers and shout greetings as people stop and chat. Here, a trip to the market isn’t just for shopping; it’s a return to a slower, traditional way of life where market days mean a chance to get fresh air, exchange gossip, and eventually purchase some produce.

Everybody patiently stands in line at the cheesemonger’s stall to only then spend ages with the expert discussing which cheese is best that day and for which occasion. They take their time, whether there’s a line or not. The same goes for the butcher and fishmonger. Who said Parisians were always in a rush?

Nervous about going to a local Paris market on your own? Join American expat chef and cook book author Alisa for a Market to Table Guided Shopping Trip & Cooking Class.

Parisians lining up at the open-air market.
Locals lined up as they wait to purchase charcuterie at the Marché Belgrand. Photo by Ulrike Lemmin-Woolfrey.

There are vendors selling fresh fruit and vegetables and a couple of superb seafood stalls as well. A creamery offers farm-fresh milk, eggs, cream, and cheeses. A rotisserie tempts everyone with the smell of freshly roasted chicken and bite-sized Bouchées à la Reine while a florist charms you with colorful blossoms. Add to that a few stands selling clothing, scarves, and other knick-knacks, and it makes for a well-rounded, fun and friendly market. One you won’t leave empty-handed.

Cow statue at dairy stand in Parisian food market.
A cow calls you over to the creamery stand at Paris’s Marché Belgrand. Photo by Ulrike Lemmin-Woolfrey.

Although the Marché Belgrand may not necessarily be one of Paris’s best markets, it is reportedly one of the city’s longest and it certainly is popular with the locals. Far from the tourist trail, it’s a great place to pick up something for a Parisian picnic and enjoy a taste of true Parisian life.

Open Wednesdays 7am–2:30pm and Saturdays 7am–3pm.


Learn what to look for at the market and how to use those fresh ingredients to prepare a 5-course French meal with our Market to Table Experience.

Paris market shopping experience and French cooking class.

recommended by

Gambetta – Père Lachaise
Métro Ⓜ
Rue Belgrand, 75020 Paris
Opening Hours

  • Bookshop, Travel
    Fan of Fashion’s Guide to Paris
    This 1-page PDF guide tells you exactly what to see and do in Paris if you have a passion for fashion! Our resident fashionistas have turned their local insight into the ultimate Paris checklist so you can learn about Parisian style, discover designers and, of course, shop till you drop. It…
  • Bookshop, Decoration, Travel
    Paris Postcards – Café Collection
    Paris postcards from Anthony Tambourini The café culture in Paris is one of our favorite things about life in the city, and we’re guessing it’s part of why you love Paris too. This set of 5 postcards featuring original illustrations of the iconic Café de Flore, Les Deux Magots, Le Café Marly,…
  • Experiences, Guided Tours
    Gastronomy-Themed Louvre Guided Tour
    Take a tasty tour of the Louvre, looking at its artworks through an original and mouth-watering point of view! Professional local Paris guides lead you on a gastronomically themed discovery of paintings, sculptures, and other artifacts while also teaching you about the culinary customs and artist…
  • Experiences, Gastronomic Experiences, Guided Tours
    Pastry Tour of Le Marais
    Le Marais is arguably the hippest neighborhood in Paris. While some may say that there are too many fashionistas, bobos, and tourists in the area, the charming cobblestone streets and vibrant atmosphere just can’t be beat. But Le Marais isn’t just about appearances. Local guides Nikki and Frederi…
  • Bookshop, Travel
    Book Lover’s Guide to Paris
    This 1-page PDF guide tells you exactly what to see and do in Paris if you love literature! Our resident bookworms turned their local insight into the ultimate checklist so you can follow in the footsteps of famous writers, visit the settings of your favorite stories, or find the perfect spot …
  • Experiences, Guided Tours
    Origins of Paris Historical Tour
    Enjoy a small-group historical walking tour in the streets of the Montagne Sainte Genevieve down to the river.
  • Experiences, Guided Tours
    Street Art Tour of the Butte aux Cailles
    Search out some of the best street art in Paris while discovering an area often ignored by visitors but adored by locals. Set off on a guided street art scavenger hunt with the whole family through the winding rues of the Butte-aux-Cailles neighborhood.
  • Experiences, Guided Tours
    Walk Through History in Le Marais
    Follow local guides Frederic and Nikki of TheWaysBeyond through the city squares and alleyways of Le Marais as you retrace the history of this iconic Parisian neighborhood. If many today consider Le Marais a must-see on any trip to Paris, it wasn’t always that way. In fact, in the early 20th cent…

Leave a Reply