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It was one of the last days of summer in late August when I first went for a walk in Paris. I don’t recall how I ended up on Rue de Rivoli, next to Palais Royal, but the skies were blue with puffy cotton clouds, and the leaves of the maple trees were pea green – some beginning to burst into a jaunty yellow. I had just had a meal at an Italian restaurant, probably a tourist trap, but what did I know? I remember I thought it was the best meal I had ever had, and it really had been then.