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For a peaceful balade around an atypical Parisian neighborhood, start at 1). the Botzaris metro station, heading away from the Parc des Buttes Chaumont and up the Rue du Général Brunet. Just past the corner café called l’Antenne, take the fork in the road to the right and continue onto the Rue de Mouzaïa.
After a block or so, you’ll begin to see small tree-lined lanes branching off this main street. Called Villas, these narrow residential rues are just begging to be explored, so take your time wandering down those which pique your interest, keeping in mind that these are peoples’ homes – please be respectful!
2). The Villa de Bellevue on your right is not to be missed, with beautiful flowers bursting over the walls and envelopping lampposts. At the end of the Villa de Bellevue, turn left onto the Rue de Bellevue then take another left to make your way up 3). the Villa des Lilas. Cross back over the Rue de Mouzaïa and continue up the Villa de la Renaissance until you reach the Rue de l’Egalité.
Turn left on the Rue de l’Egalité, then right onto the Rue de la Fraternité where you’ll pass 4). La Bouchée de Pain, a charity serving meals to Parisians in need since 1884. At the end of the street, turn left and you’ll arrive at the Place Danube. Pull up a brightly colored chair on the patio of 5). Le Danube for a quick coffee or beer en terrasse if you need a quick break, or you could even return home on the metro if you’re really tired – the Danube station on the Line 7bis is right here.
Once you’re ready to continue, head down the Rue Miguel Hildago where, you’ll once again find pretty little pedestrian streets inviting you in. Take your time walking around the villas here – they’re all worth a look!
Be sure to wander around 6). the Villa Claude Monet and 7). the Villa des Boers, then stop to admire 8). the beautiful blue house on the corner of the Rue Miguel Hidalgo, before continuing down the street and turning left onto Rue Compans. You’ll then find you’re back where you started, across from L’Antenne, with the Parc des Buttes Chaumont down the Rue Général Brunet on your right.
Life in the Neighborhood
“When I first moved to Paris, I settled into my boyfriend’s small studio near the Jourdain metro station. I was lucky enough to find a job within walking distance and I worked evenings so I was free to wander around my new neighborhood during the day.
For a year and a half, I spent mornings and afternoons sitting in cafés along the Rue des Pyrénées, strolling by cute townhouses near Danube, and exploring every corner of the Parc des Buttes Chaumont. I quickly fell in love with the area and I soon preferred spending my time in the ‘village Jourdain’ as inhabitants call it, to venturing out elsewhere in Paris.
There was a laid-back bar just below our apartment, the Barouf, where we could grab a cheap beer and chat with our neighbors. The bartenders would always greet me with a smile and the signature French bises. Every day I exchanged ‘Bonjours’ with the man who tended the produce shop next door. I didn’t expect this from Parisian life, but this small-town side came to be one of the things I appreciated the most. That, and the Buttes Chaumont.
Although I don’t particularly miss living in Paris, I definitely do miss mon quartier.”