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Buttes Chaumont

The 19th Arrondissement
Rarely visited by tourists, but loved by locals, this northeast neighborhood of Paris boasts two great parks, a mile-long canal, and plenty of bars, restaurants, and cultural venues. On the spot where the slaughterhouses of La Villette once stood, the expansive Parc de la Villette now offers sprawling greens, playgrounds, an exhibition hall, the Philharmonie de Paris, and the Cité des Sciences et de l’Industrie, to name a few. In the evenings, residents often line the nearby Bassin de la Villette for an apéro amongst friends or to play pétanque. And just a 15-minute walk from the canal lies one of the most beautiful parks in Paris, the Parc des Buttes Chaumont.

The Must-Sees Near Buttes Chaumont

  • Belvedere of the Buttes Chaumont seen from the lake below.

    Walk around the Buttes Chaumont, look out over Paris from the Belvedere, and find the grotto

  • Bright blue house in Paris Mouzaïa neighborhood

    Wander around the Mouzaïa neighborhood and admire the colorful townhouses

  • View of riverboats on the Bassin de la Villette

    Go to a concert or enjoy drinks in one of the riverboats along the Bassin de la Villette

  • Open-air movies at the Parc de la Villette

    Watch a movie in the Parc de la Villette in July or August

The Best Restaurants in Buttes Chaumont


The Best Shops in Buttes Chaumont

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Map of Buttes Chaumont

Discover the district with our bird’s-eye-view map
Map of the 19th Arrondissement in Paris

The 19th Arrondissement stretches from the Buttes Chaumont Park to the Bassin de la Villette and beyond.

Main metro stations in the Buttes Chaumont neighborhood:

Self-Guided Walking Tour

Follow Our Step-by-Step Itinerary
This calm and quiet corner of the 19th arrondissement isn’t filled with attractions or even many cafés. Instead, this short 1-2 hour stroll leads you through the charming alleyways of a quaint residential neighborhood where colorful houses, cobblestone paths, and plenty of leafy trees and blooming flowers await.
Walking itinerary in Paris's 19th Arrondissement

For a peaceful balade around an atypical Parisian neighborhood, start at 1). the Botzaris metro station, heading away from the Parc des Buttes Chaumont and up the Rue du Général Brunet. Just past the corner café called l’Antenne, take the fork in the road to the right and continue onto the Rue de Mouzaïa.

Tree-lined alley in the La Mouzaïa neighborhood.
The Villas of the Mouzaïa Neighborhood

After a block or so, you’ll begin to see small tree-lined lanes branching off this main street. Called Villas, these narrow residential rues are just begging to be explored, so take your time wandering down those which pique your interest, keeping in mind that these are peoples’ homes – please be respectful!

Colorful homes in the Mouzaïa neighborhood of Paris's 19th arrondissement
Villa de la Renaissance

2). The Villa de Bellevue on your right is not to be missed, with beautiful flowers bursting over the walls and envelopping lampposts. At the end of the Villa de Bellevue, turn left onto the Rue de Bellevue then take another left to make your way up 3). the Villa des Lilas. Cross back over the Rue de Mouzaïa and continue up the Villa de la Renaissance until you reach the Rue de l’Egalité.

Flowers and statue in the center of cobblestone city square, Place Danube.

Turn left on the Rue de l’Egalité, then right onto the Rue de la Fraternité where you’ll pass 4). La Bouchée de Pain, a charity serving meals to Parisians in need since 1884. At the end of the street, turn left and you’ll arrive at the Place Danube. Pull up a brightly colored chair on the patio of 5). Le Danube for a quick coffee or beer en terrasse if you need a quick break, or you could even return home on the metro if you’re really tired – the Danube station on the Line 7bis is right here.

Peter Rabbit house in Paris's 19th Arrondissement.
Peter Rabbit home of Villa Claude Monet

Once you’re ready to continue, head down the Rue Miguel Hildago where, you’ll once again find pretty little pedestrian streets inviting you in. Take your time walking around the villas here – they’re all worth a look!

Bright blue house in Paris Mouzaïa neighborhood
Rue Miguel Hildago

Be sure to wander around 6). the Villa Claude Monet and 7). the Villa des Boers, then stop to admire 8). the beautiful blue house on the corner  of the Rue Miguel Hidalgo, before continuing down the street and turning left onto Rue Compans. You’ll then find you’re back where you started, across from L’Antenne, with the Parc des Buttes Chaumont down the Rue Général Brunet on your right.

Portrait of Urbansider Paris blogger Alesa

Life in the Neighborhood

By alesa

“When I first moved to Paris, I settled into my boyfriend’s small studio near the Jourdain metro station. I was lucky enough to find a job within walking distance and I worked evenings so I was free to wander around my new neighborhood during the day.

For a year and a half, I spent mornings and afternoons sitting in cafés along the Rue des Pyrénées, strolling by cute townhouses near Danube, and exploring every corner of the Parc des Buttes Chaumont. I quickly fell in love with the area and I soon preferred spending my time in the ‘village Jourdain’ as inhabitants call it, to venturing out elsewhere in Paris.

There was a laid-back bar just below our apartment, the Barouf, where we could grab a cheap beer and chat with our neighbors. The bartenders would always greet me with a smile and the signature French bises. Every day I exchanged ‘Bonjours’ with the man who tended the produce shop next door. I didn’t expect this from Parisian life, but this small-town side came to be one of the things I appreciated the most. That, and the Buttes Chaumont.

Although I don’t particularly miss living in Paris, I definitely do miss mon quartier.”