La Villette – Buttes Chaumont

    Rarely visited by tourists, but loved by locals, the northeast corner of Paris boasts two incredible parks, a mile-long canal, and plenty of bars, restaurants, and cultural venues. On the spot where the slaughterhouses of La Villette once stood, the expansive Parc de la Villette now offers sprawling greens, playgrounds, an exhibition hall, the Philharmonie de Paris, and the Cité des Sciences et de l’Industrie, to name a few. In the evenings, residents often line the nearby Bassin de la Villette for an apéro amongst friends or to play pétanque. And just a 15-minute walk from the canal lies one of the most beautiful parks in Paris, the Buttes Chaumont.

    La Villette – Buttes Chaumont Neighborhood, Paris.

My life in the Neighborhood

When I first moved to Paris, I settled into my boyfriend’s small studio near the Jourdain metro station. I was lucky enough to find a job within walking distance and I worked evenings so I was free to wander around my new neighborhood during the day. For a year and a half, I spent mornings and afternoons sitting in cafés along the Rue des Pyrénées, strolling by cute townhouses near Danube, and exploring every corner of the Parc des Buttes Chaumont. I quickly fell in love with the area and I soon preferred spending my time in the “village Jourdain” as inhabitants call it, to venturing out elsewhere in Paris.

There was a laid-back bar just below our apartment, the Barouf, where we could grab a cheap beer and chat with our neighbors. The bartenders would always greet me with a smile and the signature French bises. Every day I exchanged “Bonjours” with the man who tended the produce shop next door. I didn’t expect this from Parisian life, but this small-town side came to be one of the things I appreciated the most. That, and the Buttes Chaumont.

Although I don’t particularly miss living in Paris, I definitely do miss my quartier.

By Alesa    
  • Parc des Buttes Chaumont
  • Sunset Sacré Coeur Buttes Chaumont
  • Pools La Villette
  • Blue house in Paris 19 Mouzaïa neighborhood

Neighborhood Staples

  • Walk around the Buttes Chaumont, look out over Paris from the Belvedere, and find the grotto

  • Wander around the Mouzaïa neighborhood and admire the colorful townhouses

  • Go to a concert or enjoy drinks in one of the riverboats along the Bassin de La Villette

  • Watch a movie in the Parc de La Villette in July or August


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